A Ferry Cruise to Alaska

couple aboard a ferry.

I stood on the deck and watched the scene unfold. Green-velvet mountains rose up straight out of the sea, while whales surfaced in the distance. Beside me, a woman gasped, “What are those?” “Humpbacks,” came three answers at once.

The moment was typical of any cruise to Alaska, but the ship was different. Sure, we had a cabin, and even deck chairs. But we’d intentionally skipped the fancy cruise ship—and the fancy price. Instead, we were making our way north by ferry.

Cruise ships carry just over one million tourists a year through the protected waters of the Inside Passage. The route, through northern British Columbia and southern Alaska, winds over 700 nautical miles and has become famous for its vibrant marine life and glacier-capped mountains.

I boarded the B.C. Ferry M/V Northern Adventure with my family in Port Hardy, at the northern end of Vancouver Island, and headed for Prince Rupert, 274 nautical miles north. Having grown up with BC Ferries, I never minded their utilitarian styling. But this—a posh ferry with a variety of lounges (some with movies), multiple restaurants (serving everything from grilled salmon to Thai curries), a children’s play area and an impressive gift shop—caught me off guard.

As quickly as I could, I had headed out on deck. Countless glacier-fed waterfalls tumbled down from the mountains. At times the channel would narrow and we drew so close to the falls it seemed we should feel the spray.