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Q. Our deck sits under pine trees, and dropped needles and sap lodge between the deck boards. This crud looks bad and holds onto moisture that makes the deck slippery. What is the best way to remove this stuff?
Use a dull saw -- any size coarse-tooth saw will do -- to either push or pull the crud out from between the boards. You'll help your deck breathe better and last longer by getting rid of this rot-promoting gunk. You can remove any sap that has fallen onto the deck with a heavy-duty stain remover available at home centers and paint stores. Some stain/finish removers are formulated to remove oil-base clear and semi-transparent finishes, as well as buildup from repeated applications of deck sealer. Others are specially formulated to work on tough stains and dirt such as sap. You apply the stain remover with a mop or just pour it onto the surface. Wait 15 minutes, scrub it with a brush, then rinse it off. Because sap is similar to oil-base finishes, it should come off easily.

Q. What's the best way to clean my deck?
Deck cleaners are designed to clean away grime and to remove loose wood fibers on the surface of deck boards and railings. There are a variety of formulas to choose from at your home center or hardware store. Some cleaners contain only detergents; others may contain oxalic acid or bleach or a combination of these ingredients. Unless you have mildew, moss, or berry stains, you won't need a cleaner containing bleach (sodium hypochlorite). Avoid the bleach if you can; heavy concentrations of it can damage the wood. Read the labels and choose a cleaner that best suits the discoloration or staining problems of your deck.

Before you clean the deck, replace any rotten wood. When you're ready to clean, pick a time of day when the deck is shaded. Hot sun will dry out the cleaner before it has a chance to work. Some deck cleaners can safely splash onto plants, but fragile plants, like flowers, could take a beating. Water surrounding plants to saturate the roots, then cover them. Be careful not to wet the deck when you water the plants if the product you're using must be applied to a dry surface.

Mix and apply the deck cleaner according to the manufacturer's specifications. Wear a sturdy pair of rubber gloves and safety goggles. You don't need any fancy equipment to apply the cleaning solution. An ordinary cotton mop, a garden sprayer, or a thick-nap paint roller will do the trick. Give the deck cleaner a little time to soak into the wood. Then scrub the surface with a brush to loosen the dirt and mildew. Finally, rinse away the residue.

Q. I'm having difficulty staining my pine deck. I've tried several stain products, but none are absorbed by the knots. Is there anything else I can do?

Unfortunately, there's little that can be done. Knots are extremely dense, and therefore stains just don't penetrate them. If the knots occur in just a few boards, you might try replacing the boards with a higher-grade pine (the higher the grade, the fewer the knots). This would at least reduce the problem.

OUTDOOR WOOD FINISHES There's no perfect finish that will keep wood looking natural forever. Completely opaque paints, with lots of pigment, form a film to prevent weathering but hide the color and grain of the wood. Clear penetrating finishes allow the grain and color to shine through but offer less protection against ultraviolet light, water, and other elements; the wood is more likely to fade. Use products containing mildewcides (poisons that kill mildew) when available. Allow the siding to dry for 2 full days before applying any finish; longer for damp, shady areas.There are three basic categories of finishes you can use to keep your wood looking natural. Each has its trade-offs. SEMI-TRANSPARENT STAINS These allow the texture, and to varying degrees the grain, of the wood to show through. Two coats of oil-base penetrating stain (apply the second coat before the first is fully dry) can last up to 5 or 6 years on rough-sawn or weathered wood (less on smooth wood). Latex-base stains -- easier to apply and less likely to show lap marks -- are also available, but they aren't as durable because they don't penetrate as deeply as oil-base stains. TRANSLUCENT MULTICOAT FINISHES Transluscent finishes let the wood show through, yet have sufficient body and pigment to offer protection. The best are flexible enough to stand up to the elements but may require several coats to work and can be very expensive. Check the label to make sure they're designed for exterior use and contain UV (ultraviolet) protectors or blockers. Avoid using spar or urethane varnishes outside. They'll rapidly become brittle and peel. WATER REPELLENTS AND WATER-REPELLENT PRESERVATIVES These don't form a protective film but do help prevent water staining, checking (small cracks), and they hold mildew at bay. Some repellents, both clear and tinted, contain UV blockers to inhibit weathering and create a more uniform look. Those labeled "preservative" offer better protection than plain repellents. For best results, apply two coats of water-repellent preservative after your dry wood. Follow up with additional coats every year or two on decks, every 3 or 4 years on siding and fences.

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